There is a nutty scent of toasted sesame that hangs in the air in early-morning Istanbul, often mingling with the warm, rich fragrance of roasting coffee. It comes from simit, a ring-shaped bread, its dough twisted and scattered with sesame seeds, then burnished to a chestnut brown in bread ovens across the city.
\nSold by bakeries, cafes and street vendors, eaten plain or with butter, cheese, honey or jam, it breaks the fast of millions of Istanbulites, from schoolchildren to businessmen, from the hopeful fishermen casting their lines from the Galata Bridge into the waters of the Golden Horn to the shopkeepers of the 17th-century Spice Bazaar, snatching a bite to eat while they spruce up their wares ahead of the morning hordes.
\nAt Gazebo, on the ground floor of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski hotel, breakfast is a more lavish and leisurely affair: kavurma – confit beef – fried with eggs; grilled sucuk, beef sausage; su böreği, an intricate pastry filled with crumbly cheese and parsley; salads, cheeses, olives, pastries, jams, honeycomb with clotted cream … and, of course, freshly baked simit.
\nSimit has perfumed the city’s morning air for more than five centuries, as has coffee, although it has been banned several times, notably by Sultan Murad IV who, in 1633, made public consumption of coffee punishable by death, apparently because sedition had become rife in the city’s coffee houses; happily, whatever the present Turkish government’s neuroses, coffee is not among them, and those queueing at Mehmet Efendi or nearby ihsan Kurukahvecioğ lu Halefleri, two excellent coffee roasters just outside the Spice Bazaar, have nothing to fear.
","image":null,"imageText":""},{"type":"galleryModule","headline":"Çırağan Palace Kempinski hotel","template":"Columns","gallery":[{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul Akdeniz By Esra Muslu Akdeniz By Esra Muslu Restaurant (4)","url":"/media/pmndblev/ciragan-palace-kempinski-istanbul-akdeniz-by-esra-muslu-akdeniz-by-esra-muslu-restaurant-4.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":7092,"height":5319,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul Akdeniz By Esra Muslu 05B R Copy","url":"/media/u2afgpu1/ciragan-palace-kempinski-istanbul-akdeniz-by-esra-muslu-05b_r-copy.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":6668,"height":4992,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul Akdeniz By Esra Muslu 09A R Copy","url":"/media/onrpqlas/ciragan-palace-kempinski-istanbul-akdeniz-by-esra-muslu-09a_r-copy.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":6668,"height":4992,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul Gazebo (3)","url":"/media/h0lh0vxc/ciragan-palace-kempinski-istanbul-gazebo-3.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":7339,"height":5504,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"","headline":"","text":"","force":""}]},{"type":"adBoxItem","adKey":"DEP/Article_Banner-1","adValue":"","adType":"970x250"},{"type":"textImageModule","headline":"","text":"Inside the bazaar, at shop number 33, Cankurtaran Gida has been selling superb cheeses, cured meats, honeys and jams since 1946. Cheeses range from the classic beyaz peynir (a white cheese similar to feta), enjoyed either for breakfast with tomatoes or at night with melon and raki, to the eye-wateringly pungent, salty and complex tulum, a mountain cheese matured in a goatskin (“tulum” is also the name for a kind of bagpipe from the Black Sea region).
\nHunks of brick-red pastirma – cured beef encased in a dried paste of garlic, fenugreek and spices, a cousin of pastrami – are sliced to order; the shop has a loyal army of private clients, and orders flood in every morning from all over the city and beyond.
\nTwo kilometres or so away, at Fatih Karadeniz Pidecisi ibrahim Usta, the first of the day’s pide – a fluffy, boat-shaped bread, typically filled with cheese or minced meat – is emerging from the wood-fired oven, as it has here and at its predecessor, just across the street, since 1969. Practice makes perfect: closer in style to Georgian khachapuri – cheese bread – than to Italian pizza, its crackling bronzed crust is anointed with rich yellow butter from the highlands of Rize, by the Black Sea, pide’s spiritual home.
\nOn the other side of the Golden Horn, at Ozzie’s 1968, a tiny restaurant near the Beyoğlu end of the Tünel, Istanbul’s historic funicular railway, its 37-year-old chef/proprietor Oğuzhan (Ozzie for short) is grilling his first kokoreç of the day. Compared with the Byzantine and Ottoman delicacies of Istanbul, kokoreç – offal, tightly lashed into a cylinder with intestines and flame-grilled – is practically an arriviste, but in the last few decades, it has become the city’s favourite late-night snack. Most of them are industrially produced and made from beef, not lamb, but Ozzie’s kokoreç is a masterpiece, one that has taken four generations to perfect.
\nLike his father, he uses only intestines and sweetbreads from milk-fed lambs, cleaning them without chemicals and seasoning them only lightly: Istanbul’s favoured chilli flakes and dried thyme are left to the diner’s discretion. The chasm in quality between his kokoreç and the mass-produced version is as yawning as that between a hand-rolled Havana cigar and a Marlboro Gold.
","image":null,"imageText":""},{"type":"adBoxItem","adKey":"DEP/Article_Banner-2","adValue":"","adType":"970x90"},{"type":"galleryModule","headline":"","template":"Columns","gallery":[{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Ozzies 1968 Ozzy.2022.21488","url":"/media/dhpprxhm/ozzies-1968-ozzy-2022-21488.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":7785,"height":5504,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Ozzies 1968","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Biz Istanbul Fatih Pidesi Bar Menü","url":"/media/cx5nosyo/biz-istanbul-fatih-pidesi-bar-menu.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":4699,"height":3133,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Biz ","headline":"","text":"","force":""}]},{"type":"textImageModule","headline":"","text":"Meanwhile, at the other end of İstiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s most famous shopping avenue, pedestrianised but for its photogenic old trams, restaurateur Kaya Demirer has boldly attempted to draw all these threads of Istanbul’s culinary past and present together in one venture. Perched atop Taksim Square’s seven-storey Atatürk Cultural Center, Biz – its name roughly translates as “us, together” – is a 380-cover bar and restaurant with a jaw-dropping, 270˚ view of Istanbul from its open terrace.
\nIts philosophy, says Demirer, is to reassemble the jigsaw of Istanbul’s many cuisines under one roof. To this end, he and a team of chefs, historians and culinary advisers – the project has been a couple of years in the making – have put together three distinct menus.
\nOne reflects the simple, traditional cuisine of the lokanta, a workers’ canteen-style restaurant, another celebrates street food from grill and oven – kokoreç and pide are both on offer, the former as a lamb cutlet wrapped in lamb’s intestines, the latter in several incarnations, including one with smoked tongue and pickles, reminiscent of a great New York deli sandwich – and the third a gastronomic restaurant, taking classic Istanbul dishes and giving them a contemporary twist. A major part of Demirer and his team’s project was to research and write the story of each dish on the menu: scan the QR code on the table, and all is revealed.
\nThere is rascasse – scorpion fish – served on slow-cooked white beans and basted with foaming butter; bottarga – preserved grey mullet roe – thinly sliced and garnished with caviar and lemon cream; masusa, a long-forgotten Istanbul dish of chicken cooked with mastic, saffron and spices; and a range of desserts – muhallebi, baklava, kadayif – with the classic Ottoman flavours of rosewater, nuts and apricots. Dinner becomes a fascinating and delicious ramble through Istanbul’s culinary history.
\nAnd this, says Demirer, is just the beginning. His dream is to showcase Istanbul’s epicurean past, present and future not just at home but abroad, convinced that Istanbul is, as he puts it, a “sexy brand”; and, with the backing of Doğuş Group, one of Turkey’s largest private-sector conglomerates, he is planning his next move, perhaps in London or Dubai.
\nDoğuş Group is also the financial muscle behind Galataport, the project that has transformed 1.2 kilometres of Karaköy’s shoreline, where the Bosphorus meets the Golden Horn: as well as the cruise-ship port, there is a new Peninsula hotel, a shopping and dining complex, and the striking new Istanbul Modern art gallery designed by architect Renzo Piano. Footsore art lovers should head for Restaurant Modern on the first floor, where the terrace offers fine views across the Golden Horn, and the siron – crisp nuggets of filo pastry with sautéed minced lamb, fresh herbs, yoghurt and spicy oil – are excellent.
\nOr, for a heartier lunch, head to Fasuli, an outlier of a lokanta and a reminder of old Istanbul in Galataport’s brave new world. “Fasuli” means beans, which gives you a clue as to the dish to order: a Black Sea dish of white beans cooked with lavish quantities of butter and just enough cubes of beef to give it depth, ladled from a vast pot. All it needs is a side order of sharp, salty pickles and a sprinkle of chilli flakes.
\nNearby, Karaköy Lokantasi serves lunchtime casseroles in the lokanta tradition, then transforms into a meyhane – a tavern serving meze, small dishes – in the evening. Popular with an arty, intellectual crowd of Istanbulites, it moved from its old home a few years ago – it is now a macaron shop (there goes the neighbourhood) – but owners Aylin Okutan and Oral Kurt have managed to bring with them the buzz of good conversation, stimulated in true Istanbul style by plenty of raki. The new restaurant, with its modern blue tiles, angled mirrors and shaded terrace, is delightful, the food is better than ever, and prices are very reasonable.
","image":null,"imageText":""},{"type":"galleryModule","headline":"","template":"Columns","gallery":[{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Modern Restoran RM 2","url":"/media/xvhlmiqy/modern-restoran-rm-2.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":3218,"height":2160,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Restaurant Modern","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Karaköy Lokantası KL Foto 1","url":"/media/zqlj3xtn/karako-y-lokantası-kl_foto_1.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":8000,"height":6202,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Karaköy Lokantasi","headline":"","text":"","force":""}]},{"type":"adBoxItem","adKey":"DEP/Article_Banner-3","adValue":"","adType":"728x90"},{"type":"textImageModule","headline":"","text":"\n
Raki is invariably served very simply, with cold water and a cube or two of ice, but up in Pera, at Ernest’s Bar next to the famous old Pera Palace Hotel, renowned bartender Fatih Akerdem offers a different slant on Turkey’s national drink. His clubby, cosy, wood-panelled bar also serves the adjoining Thai restaurant, Çok Çok Thai, and it has inspired him to invent a range of raki cocktails to partner the food: his “Raki Hot Chilli”, made with chilli-infused raki, fresh coriander, lime juice, ginger and Cointreau, might convert even the most resolute of raki refuseniks. The bar was, apparently, a favourite of Hemingway’s – although you might ask “Which bar wasn’t?” – hence the name, and it is a great spot to escape Pera’s bustle for an hour or two.
\nA short walk from Ernest’s is the stylish Yeni Lokanta, the fiefdom of chef/proprietor Civan Er. Do not be deceived: Yeni is as much a lokanta as London’s River Café is a place for a coffee and a pastry. It is one of Istanbul’s very best restaurants, and its modest name belies a menu that takes the best Turkish ingredients and turns them into works of art. His manti – little meat-filled dumplings, traditionally served with garlicky yoghurt, butter and chilli flakes – are spectacularly good, bathed in a sauce made from double-fermented goat’s milk yoghurt, the sauce dotted with oils made from parsley and chilli, giving the dish the look of marbled paper: ebru, a historic Turkish art form.
\nThe Michelin Guide finally descended on Turkey last year: both Yeni and Karaköy Lokantasi are listed, while Turk, highly acclaimed Istanbul chef Fatih Tutak’s restaurant, scooped a well-deserved two stars for his intricately crafted, bold-flavoured dishes that, like the menus at Yeni and Biz, celebrate the wealth of Turkish time-honoured ingredients and techniques. Gallada, his newly opened restaurant at The Peninsula, meanwhile, promises a menu “inspired by the captivating flavours of ancient Silk Road cuisine”. This new-found swagger in Turkey’s gastronomic stride is evident even at Istanbul’s vast new international airport, where the swanky Turkish Airlines business lounge tempts weary travellers with freshly baked pide, simit, börek and handmade manti, all made from scratch in open kitchens.
\nBut, just as modern Istanbul is built on the foundations of Byzantium and Constantinople, so today’s chefs in Istanbul are standing on the shoulders of those who have come before: not just the chefs in sultans’ palaces, but the fishermen supplying anchovies, bonito and turbot to Istanbul’s many markets; the traders from three continents bringing spices to the Golden Horn; the simit bakers and the pastry cooks; the chestnut sellers on the winter streets; the grill chefs in ocakbasis, expertly turning kebabs over glowing coals; and the home cooks from every region of Turkey, the beneficiaries of countless generations of culinary know-how. Byzantium and Constantinople were the hubs of great empires: perhaps a new, Istanbul-based empire will capture not territories, but tastebuds.
","image":null,"imageText":""},{"type":"galleryModule","headline":"","template":"Columns","gallery":[{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Yeni Lokanta 0S2A1716 1","url":"/media/1sep35vi/yeni-lokanta-0s2a1716-1.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":3000,"height":2000,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Yeni Lokanta","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"Yeni Lokanta 0S2A1215 1","url":"/media/n4ddakcz/yeni-lokanta-0s2a1215-1.jpg","copyright":"","author":"","width":3000,"height":2000,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Yeni Lokanta","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"TURK Fatih Tutak Interiors Pc İbrahim Özbunar.4","url":"/media/4vhm5jmd/turk-fatih-tutak-interiors_pc-i-brahim-o-zbunar-4.jpg","copyright":"İbrahim Özbunar","author":"","width":2500,"height":1776,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Turk","headline":"","text":"","force":""},{"type":"galleryItem","image":{"type":"jpg","name":"TURK Fatih Tutak Umami Birthday Cake PC Duygu Turkmen (1)","url":"/media/k2hpab4c/turk-fatih-tutak-umami-birthday-cake_pc_-duygu-turkmen-1.jpg","copyright":"Duygu Turkmen","author":"","width":3211,"height":2247,"videoThumbnail":null},"video":null,"imageText":"Turk","headline":"","text":"","force":""}]},{"type":"adBoxItem","adKey":"DEP/Article_Banner-4","adValue":"","adType":"300x250"},{"type":"anchorModule","Identifier":"Eat & Drink","label":"eat-drink"},{"type":"textImageModule","headline":"Istanbul Handbook","text":"A tip-to-toe guide for where to eat, stay, shop and drink in Europe’s largest metropolis
\nWhere to Eat and Drink:
\n\nA historic, beautifully tiled restaurant up a staircase from the spice market. Reliably good meze and other dishes: try the slow-cooked lamb with aubergine.
\n\nChef Civan Er's Istanbul stronghold (he has a Yeni in London's Soho as well), a stone's throw from İstiklal Caddesi, offers imaginative cuisine strongly rooted in Turkish tradition in a lovely setting. The wine list is excellent, too.
\n\nOne of the city's great hangouts for writers, artists, intellectuals and anyone else who wants to chew the fat over sparklingly fresh meze and a glass of raki.
\n\nA classic cafe with a vintage shopfront popular for breakfast (try the menemen, spiced scrambled eggs) and for traditional desserts, including a kind of blancmange made with chicken breast.
\n\nSet in the old American consulate, now the preserve of veteran bartender Fatih Akerdem, this is a calm and clubby bar with great drinks and – at night – a terrace with live music.
\n\nThis is a classic old lokanta on a street corner that dodged the Galataport wrecking ball. There's a long menu of well-cooked classics, but it's the beans that take the laurels.
\n\nFifth-generation pastry chef Nadir Güllü presides over this jeweller's shop for lovers of Turkish sweets, famous especially for their baklava.
\n\nStar chef Mehmet Gürs's Michelin-starred restaurant sits atop the Marmara Pera hotel and boasts a terrace with a lovely view over the Golden Horn. Expect intelligent, finely crafted reworkings of classic Turkish dishes and a terrific Turkish wine list – one of the best in the city.
\n\nCome for best kokoreç in town, but also terrific homemade sucuk. Ozzie's is tiny, though, and he insists on cooking everything from scratch, so make sure to book.
\n\nPerhaps Istanbul's classiest nightspot, this is a sleek restaurant with clientele to match, a stunning terrace, an excellent Turkish/international menu and a 3 am licence at weekends.
\n\nA smart, classic Istanbul seafood restaurant, right on the Bosphorus, expect attentive, old-school service and the freshest of fish.
\n\nFor a great day away from Istanbul's European hotspots, take the ferry to Asia and head for Kadiköy, one of the liveliest neighbourhoods in the city, popular with locals and tourists alike. There is an excellent market, too, and – among a plethora of options – no better place for lunch than Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in historic, homestyle Anatolian dishes.
","image":null,"imageText":""},{"type":"adBoxItem","adKey":"DEP/Article_Banner-5","adValue":"","adType":"728x90"},{"type":"anchorModule","Identifier":"Shop","label":"shop"},{"type":"textImageModule","headline":"","text":"Shopping the Spice Bazaar:
\n\nThere is a permanent queue of locals and tourists outside Istanbul's most popular coffee roaster, but it moves quickly.
\nİhsan Kurukahvecioğlu Halefleri
\nA few steps from Mehmet Efendi, this place has a much wider range of coffees from around the world, and no queues.
\n\nCome here to choose from a cornucopia of cheeses, cured meats, bottarga, honeys and other delicacies at very fair prices.
\n\nThis is the best spice shop in the market, also offering high-quality dried herbs – thyme and mint – and top-notch saffron.
\nAli Muhiddin Haci Bekir, Osmanağa, Muvakkıthane Cd. 6/A
\nThese two adjacent shops are both famous for lokum (Turkish delight), in myriad flavours, as well as a host of other sweet things.
","image":null,"imageText":""},{"type":"adBoxItem","adKey":"DEP/Article_Banner-6","adValue":"","adType":"300x250"},{"type":"anchorModule","Identifier":"Stay","label":"stay"},{"type":"textImageModule","headline":"","text":"Where to Stay:
\n\nNedret and Mark Butler – she’s Turkish, he’s American – are both architects by profession, and it shows. Their stunning hotel on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus has 13 beautiful rooms and suites as well as direct access to the water, while their delightful waterfront restaurant is open to non-residents, but you will need to reserve a table.
\n\nThe newest addition to the city’s clutch of luxury hotels, offering all the usual five-star bells and whistles, including Gallada, a Silk Road-themed restaurant overseen by Fatih Tutak. Guests can arrive by road or by boat: it is at the heart of the Galataport development.
\n\nThe grande dame of the Bosphorus, the Çırağan Palace occupies 420 metres of shoreline, with plenty of space for a swimming pool, an outdoor grill restaurant and the historic palace itself, a favourite for weddings. The beautifully refurbished main hotel also houses Akdeniz, a pan-Mediterranean restaurant by London-based Turkish chef Esra Muslu.
\n\nOne of the city’s most atmospheric places to stay, bang in the middle of the lively Pera neighbourhood. A lavishly restored Belle Époque gem, the Pera Palace was originally intended to host guests from the Orient Express, including Agatha Christie, whose favourite room was 411. A tinkling piano accompanies afternoon tea.
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